FAQ
Q: What is a "building
envelope"?
A: Experts know the shell, or outer layer of your
home, as a building envelope. This is the boundary that separates
the inside from the outside: The walls and ceiling are part of that
boundary. Generally speaking, the areas of a building that are intentionally
conditoned (heated) should be considered inside the envelope, and
the areas that we don't want to condition will be outside.
Q: What is the best way to
stop heat loss?
A: Heat loss occurs due to heat flow through poorly
insulated walls and attic spaces, as well as warm air exfiltration.
The most noticeable heat loss occurs through air infiltration/ exfiltration
and can be remedied by air sealing te leaky area. After the leaks
have been stopped, insulation can be added where necessary.
Q: What the heck is "air-sealing"?
A: Air-sealing is basically draft-stopping - we want
to eliminate any air movement between the conditioned space and the
outside. The benefits of doing this are numerous and you may read
more about those here: Air Sealing.html
. The methods and products we use to acheive greater air tightness
in buildings are many, and may include sealing all penetrations to
the attic, dense packing walls with cellulose insulation, or sealing
the rim joist with 2-part foam. We may need to remove window casings
to seal the gap at the rough opening, or even replace a window.
Q: Doesn’t my house
already have insulation?
A: Probably, but does it have enough? If your house was built
within the last 30 years, it will likely have some insulation. In
Vermont, residential energy code requires R-38 (12" fiberglass
or cellulose) for attcs in new construction. The Dept of Energy now
recommends R-49 (15" fiberglass or cellulose ) in attics, as
does Ashton Thermal. There is less flexibility to improve walls that
contain existing insulation and usually the best option is to air
seal them. Most 2x4 walls can contain no more than R-11 and 2x6 walls
can hold R-19. Batt insulation must be properly placed and cover the
entire cavity.
Q: What is R-value?
A: Insulation is rated in terms of its thermal resistance,
which indicates its resistance to heat flow. The higher the "R-value",
the more effective the insulation. R-values of thermal insulation
vary depending on the type of material, its thickness and its density.
For multi-layered installation, the R-values of the different layers
are simply added up. In short, installing more insulation on your
building increases the R-value and the resistance to heat flow.
Q: How can you insulate my
walls without removing the siding, or interior finished wall?
A: We typically only need to remove one row of siding to
access the wall cavities. We carefully remove a row of siding and
drill a hole in each stud bay. We insert a tube into these holes and
blow cellulose insulation at high density into the bays. This is known
as the dense-pack method. Not only does this increase the thermal
resistance of the wall, but it creates a better air barrier against
unwanted air exchange between inside and out.
Q: Is there such a thing
as a house that's too tight?
A: Well, yes and no... Ashton Thermal takes the position
that the building's shell, or envelope, should be as tight as it can
possibly be. Once the shell is tight, we test to determine the ventilation
requirements of the building as per ASHRAE 62.1, and add ventilation
as is necessary. Without proper ventilation, indoor air quality suffers
due to lack of fresh air and the build-up of humidity (from cooking,
plants, breathing, washing, etc.) and indoor pollutants (off-gasing
of carpets and furniture, pet dander, cooking odors, etc.). Older
buildings used what we call "natural ventilation", meaning
they were so leaky that sweaters and blankets were mandatory equipment
8 months out of the year. It is far better to control the amount of
ventilation in a building and change the rate of introduced fresh
air, and exhaust of stale air as conditions change during the course
of a day.
Q: Does making a home tighter
lead to more issues with mold?
A: Not necessarily. Mold issues appear when a home
has problems with moisture. These problems may be due to water from
improper landscaping or plumbing leaks in the crawl space, improper
flashings, lack of exterior rain planes behind siding and/or lack
of proper ventilation. Homes should have proper ventilation to help
prevent issues with mold. The best building practice is to build a
home tight and control the home's ventilation using mechanical ventilation
such as kitchen, bathroom and whole house fans. Most new homes are
tight enough to need mechanical ventilation with make up air to control
moisture.
Q: Why do you evaluate my heating system when
you are not a heating contractor?
A: We want to be sure that there are no unsafe conditions in your
building before we specify work. We are particularilly concerned about
carbon monoxide. If any of your heating appliances emits too much
CO, we want you to have the situation fixed. This is a safety issue
for you and your family, and we feel an important component of the
service we provide. Also, since we are hoping to save you money on
your heating bills, we thought it would be nice if we could tell you
how efficiently your appliances are working.
Q: Are there government
incentive programs available to help defer the cost of performance
upgrades to my home?
A: Yes. They are annoyingly and unnecessarily complicated.
You can read more about that on the
Energy Star website.
Q: How much money will
I save?
A: It depends on your building and what condition
it is starting from. A home with no insulation will save a lot more
than the home with some insulation. Some of the upgrades we recommend
will make little difference in the heating bill, but make an enormous
difference in comfort. Payback, or return on investment for most of
the retrofit insulation and air-sealing jobs we do is under 4 years.
We can give you a more accurate assessment if you have us visit for
an evaluation. Call now, or contact us using this form.
If you have questions you'd like to see answered on
this page, please let us know!
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